A short walk from Lyme Hall inspired by Pride and Prejudice
It is a truth universally acknowledged that any piece of writing about Pride and Prejudice has to riff on the famous opening line at least once.
When I had the idea for a blog about fiction-inspired walks, Lizzie Bennet immediately sprung to mind as an obvious walking heroine. The fact she sees a three mile walk as no obstacle to visiting her sister at Netherfield sets her apart from other characters who view walking to places as puzzling and a bit degrading. She crosses fields, jumps stiles (not something I’ve ever contemplated) and arrives with “dirty stockings, and a face glowing with the warmth of exercise”. Contrast her matter of fact attitude to physical exertion with the insufferable Caroline Bingley, for whom taking a turn around the room is “very refreshing”. Even if I had a living room of what I imagine to be the proportions of Netherfield Hall, I’m not sure it’s quite as refreshing as a good blast up The Roaches or an evening leg-stretch along the Erewash Canal.
For years I thought that Pemberley was Chatsworth. Then re-reading the book for this blog, I realised that it is clearly not. Chatsworth is mentioned in relation to Elizabeth’s visit to Derbyshire. Also, for all his ten thousand a year, Mr Darcy is just Mr and not a Duke. Wikipedia advises me that Pemberley is based on Lyme Hall. I’m not sure I’m entirely convinced of this (it’s in Cheshire not Derbyshire for a start) though it was the location for the exterior filming of the 1995 BBC TV adaptation. I’d never visited Lyme Hall or its environs, whereas I’m fairly familiar with Chatsworth and surrounding area. Lyme also features in a favourite vintage book of walks of mine: Rambles in Peakland by Roger Redfern (more about this another time perhaps). So, off I went to Cheshire.
Ramble #1
Map and route: This is walk spans two OS Explorer maps – OL1 and OL24. I have recorded my route here.
Distance: 7.8miles
Timing: This walk took me 3hours 20 minutes, including stopping to take notes and photos, pausing at the oratory and dithering on a stile occupied by cattle.
Start: I started from the car park at Lyme Hall. Alternatively, Disley station is about a mile from the start of the walk.
Description: From the car park I followed the main track uphill and away from the house, signposted toward the overflow car park and Darcy’s Pond. Keep to the path to the car park ignoring branches off to the right.
At the overflow car park the path enters a lovely mixed wood with oak, sycamore, birch and a steep bank of conifers to one side. It was an overcast and slightly drizzly September Friday when I did this walk and fairly quiet once away from the bustle of the house.
Leave the park by West Lodge and turn left along the lane to the road. Turn left and leave the road almost immediately left on a track next to the Methodist chapel. Follow the track up past cottages. Further along the track passes a recently established oratory dedicated to St Paulinus (‘a great walker’ apparently). A simple timber frame building with a stone floor, chairs and a table of candles in glass holders. I stopped briefly to enjoy the peace and wrote in the visitors’ book. I love these unexpected discoveries when out walking – tiny buildings, old signs, bits of archaeology and other quirks not marked even on the super-detailed OS Explorer maps or perhaps marked but without a clear indication of what it might be. I usually return from a ramble with at least one thing to look up. (There are no fewer than five St Paulinus’ on wikipedia. None of the entries mention him being a keen walker, although Paulinus of York has a pilgrim route, so let’s assume he’s the chap.)
The path continues to climb, past remains of a quarry to the left. It was nice to be on grass at last after a lot of track walking. On reaching the Moorside Lane, turn right along the track. Ignore the first footpath off to the left but at the next path junction, turn left uphill on a bridle path. The path climbs steeply through fields of sheep and then enters access land at Bakestonedale Moor. Follow the path downhill to the road. Here was another unexpected oddity, almost exactly on the join between the two OS maps, a small obelisk commemorating the coal mining industry.
At the road turn left and then right onto a footpath, up a short but steep grassy slope. Contour around something called Andrew’s Knob (stop it…) with the wall on your right. At the bottom of the field turn left to follow the wall. (I later realised you can cross the field diagonally and cut the corner off – oh well.) At the field corner, cross the cattle grid and take the upper path through a kissing gate and a stand of trees. A signpost informs the walker she is now on the Gritstone Trail.
The path is well-trod and waymarked. After a couple of fields the path joins a farm track. Follow this down to Brink Farm. Turn right along the road, then left continuing along the Gritstone Trail. The track climbs to a viewpoint. Unfortunately, on this grey day there was no view. I took a short detour to the top of Sponds Hill, the trig point being on private land behind a gate. And here I came across possibly the oddest thing on the walk – three lonely portaloos clustered together by the side of the track. It seemed a very strange place for temporary facilities, I couldn’t fathom it. Not at all in keeping with the Jane Austen mood of my walk!
Descend the track to Bowstonegate where a footpath crosses the track. Bow Stones are marked on the map in that gothic font that denotes an antiquity. However, I could see no sign of said Bow Stones. I took the path to the left, signposted Lyme Hall, but the walk could easily be extended at this point. As it was, I’d not started particularly early and was keen to get back before my car was locked inside the car park.
Climb a ladder stile into more access land on Park Moor. At the top of the stile I was dismayed to see a group of highland cattle had arranged themselves on the other side, including one black beast lying across the bottom step. I surveyed the scene for a bit. The cattle, beautiful looking creatures in a variety of caramel colours, seemed entirely unconcerned with my presence – so unlike the curious but skittish young cattle I had encountered on a walk just the previous week that had caused myself and my rambling companion to make a major diversion around the edge of a field that ended with us vaulting (OK, clambering over) a stone water trough into an adjacent field. I stamped and clapped but to no avail. Blackie just lay there contentedly, gently snuffing and dreaming of Benbecula. I gingerly stepped over her and went on my way.
At the bottom of the track, re-enter Lyme Park and walk through the woods. There was another reason I want to return on this route. In Pride and Prejudice, Lizzie first views Pemberley through trees. She is in a carriage at the time, rather than on foot, but I wanted to try and recreate this. So far, I’d only seen the side of the house from the car park. As I descended through the trees, the house came suddenly into view, framed beautifully by the branches. It is certainly impressive, though on a grey day perhaps not looking its best – a bit forlorn almost. For here the path continues down to the car park.
Verdict: A short but varied walk with potential for great views on a clearer day. A few steep bits but all fairly short – nothing a modern-day Lizzie Bennet couldn’t handle. If you’re organised and set off early enough (unlike me), there should be time to visit the house too. However, I did manage to squeeze in a cup of tea and the last scone of the day from the café before the park gates closed. Though my ‘stockings’ remained free of dirt, my cheeks were suitably glowing by the end.
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